Rosario, la joya del rio.
Finding gems in unexpected places.
Welcome welcome welcome to the latest edition of el voseo, where I get to tell you about the past month—and this time, we’re dedicating it all to Rosario, the city I never expected would steal my heart.
To start, this song captures it all for me—it’s been a favorite of mine since I first found out I’d be coming to live in Argentina, and I finally got to see “el Ruso” last week surrounded by the liveliest crowd ever to attend a sadboi concert in a gorgeous theater in a city I can now confidently call another one of my homes. Yes, I did shed a few tears.
But I’m getting ahead of myself!
I survived the mean streets of Rosario.
For the past six months, whenever I mentioned I was moving to Rosario for my research, the response I’d get was, without fail, something concerned with safety. Rosario is known within Argentina as a very dangerous place to live, and while the murder and crime rates here are much higher than in other parts of the country, they’re really about on par with many U.S. cities, including Washington, D.C., and several cities in the Bay Area.
I came into Rosario with this information and with the knowledge that I was living in a safe neighborhood and had no reason to be wandering around alone at night, plus all the normal precautions like no cell phones out in the street and general alertness about my surroundings that I’ve maintained in all big cities here.
But it was hard to ignore the cacophony of people telling me to be afraid, so I was surely hesitant to spend nearly two months here. But after literally one week basking in the sunshine by the river and exploring coffee and ice cream shops like it was my job, I got below the surface and was able to fully enjoy frolicking in the city that has felt like home more than any other here in Argentina.
I owe so much of my social success in this city to the other Fulbrighter here India, who introduced me to her entire network, so thank you, India!
Here’s a snippet from my journal that I think sums up some of my #feels as I was on the bus after moving out this past weekend.
When I think of Rosario, I hope I think of Claudia, my yoga instructor, teaching my how to breathe and giving me the longest hugs I’ve ever had. I hope I think about unlocking the door to Sabri’s apartment like it’s my own, telling India I’m “home” when I’m there, as her cat Penny beelines to my lap.
I hope I think about Milli going out of her way to say goodbye over mate my last weekend and kissing me fully on the cheek. I hope I think of the sun shining through the trees on Boulevard Oroño, the common soul I found in Adriana, tinseled hair and all, and the thousands of people screaming for Conociendo Rusia and marching at Pride.
I hope I think about the stupid horns on the river from people selling pan casero and standing on a street corner with India debating veganism for two hours until after midnight.
I will miss this place with my whole body, and never forget how it took me in and hugged me with both arms.
I know I am lucky to have not experienced crime firsthand in Argentina so far (knock on wood) and everyone is right to make safety decisions that fit their comfort level.
But what a shame it is that so many people miss out on the incredible city and people of Rosario.
I survived the 2023 Buenos Aires marathon.
Also this month, I traveled back to Buenos Aires for a weekend to run the city’s annual marathon! I had been training for almost the entirety of my time here in Argentina, so it was really cool to see all of that hard work pay off and to be surrounded by my now-support system of Fulbright friends I have made since moving here.
Running a marathon has always been a theoretical life goal of mine, but I was never willing to sacrifice the time it takes to train. That’s why doing it during my Fulbright year felt like the perfect chance!
It is also always just such a pleasure to return to Buenos Aires now that I’ve done most of the touristy stuff and just enjoy the bustle of the city with no agenda. We ate good food and I got a sweet medal out of it—what could be better?
I survived an hourlong presentation in Spanish.
And let’s not forget, I’m doing research, remember?
Much to my surprise, I had an enormous amount of luck very early on in my research here in Rosario, where I am studying the wildfires that have been burning on the islands in the delta of the Paraná River, which flows all the way down from Brazil and home to a globally significant inland port.
I had the chance to go out to the islands and interview people who live there, who are affected by the wildfires and also often blamed for starting them. I was also so privileged to work with the Rosario Physics Institute where I found my incredible friend and mentor Adriana, who is studying the health effects of wildfire smoke.
To culminate my time in Rosario, she gave me the opportunity to present my research at the National University, which offered time and space to openly reflect on what I’ve learned over the past 6 months and, of course, made me feel super legit.
Next up is Bariloche (I actually got here on Monday) which is already a super opposite vibe, the mountain town very quiet and serene. But I have many more travels and adventures to come, as this is my first time in Patagonia, so stay tuned!
In the meantime, more FOOD pics!
