One down, two to go.
Saying goodbye to Córdoba and hello to Rosario. New adventures await!
Hello and welcome to the latest iteration of el voseo! Not much is new, but isn’t that the best? It means I am finally, sort of, getting used to this thing called “culture shock” and getting into a rhythm. Oh wait, except for one thing.
Today I move to Rosario! And it more or less marks the halfway point of my grant, which is pretty unbelievable. So here’s what I’ve been up to, aided by this absolute jam:
It’s called fieldwork for a reason.
I’ve had the luck and privilege to get invited on a couple of really interesting and cool field research opportunities in my final month here in Córdoba that took me literally to el campo, as pictured above and below, and which have really solidified the importance of being here in person to do my project.
First I got to do my first-ever interview on horseback with Michael, who showed me around his ranch above La Cumbre, which burned in the 2020 fires. He told me all about the work he and his neighbors are doing to help stop fires up in the hills before they can threaten property and the towns below.
I was then invited to a lively 9 of July (their 4th of July) celebration in the town of La Granja by Mariano, whose daughter Sara sang as part of the acto, which I recorded below.
That got me invited to a working day of the eight local “brigadistas,” which are community-led fire brigades that operate unofficially to protect local forests.
In a reserve near the town of Ascochinga, I got to observe the creation of a fire break that could prove critical to protecting the reserve and helping brigade members access water from a nearby river.
While I have developed a love-hate relationship with the early morning and late-night bus trips to and from the capital city, these fieldwork opportunities have shown me so much of the province and have allowed me to see firsthand the power of community here in Argentina, which I feel so lucky to experience.
The Great Northern Argentina Adventure, feat. Mom.
Also since I last wrote, my mom came to visit, and see the north we did! Since it’s winter here, we spent the trip exploring the northern parts of the country, heading from Buenos Aires to Iguazu Falls (after our plane got struck by lightning and made an emergency landing, whoops!), the province of Salta, and Mendoza, before I got to show her around Córdoba.
The highlights for me were definitely Iguazu and Salta, two completely different and equally awe-inspiring landscapes, like nothing I have ever seen!
While planning so many huge adventures can feel stressful and overwhelming, it has been totally worth it.
In my feels.
In between research and travel, life has gone on, and I have celebrated multiple birthdays, soccer matches, and just plain life here in Córdoba. Pictures hardly do it justice, but this city and the people in it are truly beautiful and one-of-a-kind.
But today I move, and of course, I have mixed emotions about it. (So let’s put on a song, shall we?)
While I have felt so at home here in Córdoba, it does feel like time for me to go, experience a new city and take the next step in my research. What I am most grateful for is how surprisingly wonderful Córdoba has been, so I took the time to document some things I will miss, with pictures of course:
The vibe of my house, where there’s always movement and music and cooking and life.
My yoga studio and climbing gym, where I found peace and focus amid the chaos.
Parque Sarmiento, where I have spent countless hours running, oftentimes literally in circles, as part of my marathon training.
The Cordobeses themselves, who almost seem to take pride in being chiller than other city dwellers.
Being in the literal center of the country, accesible to anywhere.
Our rooftop, which has served as my beach on unseasonably warm winter days.
Fernet and Coca-Cola, the typical bar drink in the whole province that I have come to love.
The funky street art and graffiti that’s plastered on every empty wall in the city.
My verdurería, which has the best seasonal selection and the nicest employees ever.
The Cordobese accent, which I am surprised and proud to say I understand.
The small but mighty Catholic University campus, where I had many a meeting with my incredible advisor.
The proximity of the beautiful, “tranqui” mountains where my research has taken hold.
And of course, every one of my people, from my frisbee team to all my former and current roommates to my Fulbright friends—thank you all for everything.
To Rosario we go! Here’s all the delicious food I’ve been eating.
